Sorry it took me so long to get the video up of the big swell that hit on Sept 25th. The beautiful thing about a video is I don’t have to say much else besides… ENJOY !!
Sorry it took me so long to get the video up of the big swell that hit on Sept 25th. The beautiful thing about a video is I don’t have to say much else besides… ENJOY !!
27 Sep 2009
This past Friday, Pipeline and Sunset were going off during an early season WNW swell. Early morning Sunset was perfect, but then got really choppy as the winds set in. Pipe was epic all day long, peaking and becoming cleanest around mid-day.
Waimea Bay had its fair share of bomb sets as well. There were a lot of broken boards and a few injuries. I’ve been talking with a lot of people down on the beach and everyone is tripping out over the size of the waves for this time of year. I got out to surf Waimea Thursday night and it was amazing, and I can’t wait to get some more of it as this season continues. Check back again for video of Friday’s waves!
This is not the image you expect to see when looking at Pipeline this time of year.
Pig-dogging it at Pipe.
One of the most spectacular sights at Pipeline is watching it spit.
Backdoor was dangerous, as most waves were closing out on the inside with big sets out the back.
Second Reef was firing during the big sets, but there weren't too many takers.
The shifting peaks at Sunset really lit up as the swell filled in.
This guy's hoping he can race through this section without getting smashed.
You don't want to be in this guy's situation...pulling out straight with endless lines of waves coming in behind you.
Lived on the North Shore for 3 yrs. in the 70’s. The earliest I ever saw a swell on the North Shore Sept. 1, 1979. Woke up to hear noise walked into livingroom looked up across Kammies to sunset the waves were pureglass an 10′ went nuts. By the end of day was 15′-18′ with perfect trades. Myself, Gary Speece,and Roger Ericson thought the bay was going to be breaking the next day, but it dropped.
P.S. had heard an old friend had passed away his name was Imua Paaina,back then he was president of the Hui, black shorts club, could someone let me know if this is true. Thanks, Jimmy Evans
Comment by Jimmy Evans — 28 Sep 2009 @ 6:14 AM
Hi there
I’m wondering who the standup paddler was on Friday, Sept. 25 at Pipe. I heard conflicting opinions, and it was hard to tell from the beach. Do you know?
Aloha
I’m pretty sure it was Ikaika Kalama
great video tim
paul and i loved it
uncle
Comment by T.J. V. — 9 Oct 2009 @ 3:05 PM
Nice video!
Comment by Andrew Nash — 24 Oct 2009 @ 6:21 PM